In general, visitors should keep in mind that when visiting a different culture, it is important to show as much respect as possible. That is most effectively done by observing local behavior, striving to follow typical practices whenever practical, and asking if something is unclear. Some generally useful rules are to dress neatly and modestly to present a respectful appearance, and to minimize the effect of a group "descending" on a community by cooperating in an orderly and organized fashion.

Credentials:

When arriving at a community, you should always come with an introductory note from a local human rights observation group to vouch for you. If you do not have a note, it is very likely that community members will not feel safe to speak to you. There are two main non-governmental human rights groups in San Cristóbal: Enlace Civil and Fray Bartoleme. Some communities work more with one or the other group, so it is a good idea to get a note from appropriate group, or both, if uncertain.

Meeting Protocol:

When in a meeting, pay attention when community leaders are talking. Many communities will designate a spokesman, who may have a prepared speech that the community would like the visitors to hear. Always listen with attention and respect and do not wander off from the main group, even if you do not understand. When indigenous people are talking in a native language, the reason is that not all community members understand Spanish, although they all participate in the decision-making process. When the indigenous people finish their discussion, they will communicate the information in Spanish. If you have questions, there will be time for them at the end of the presentation, which is when exchanges and interaction occur.

Gender separation:

When staying in communities, be sensitive to the fact that genders may be separated. For example, there are usually different areas in the river for men and women to bathe. There may be separate areas in the church or meeting halls for men and women to sit. There may be separate sanitary facilities. Observe, and when in doubt, ask discretely.

Water:

When in the communities, remember, water is an extremely precious resource. Conserve it! When bathing in rivers, use the designated area, which is located to guard the purity of the communities' water supplies. Swim in the area reserved for your gender. Wear a bathing suit for modesty. Use the minimal amount of soap possible, or none at all.

Bathroom etiquette:

In organized communities, there may be separate facilities for women and men. In poor settlements, there may only be one latrine that all share. Make sensitive inquiries of, preferably, a member of your own sex: such as "are there separate facilities for men and women here & would you please direct me to an appropriate facility?" A good suggestion is to work on your thigh muscles before traveling--you may be doing a fair amount of squatting!

The plumbing in most of Mexico is not equipped to handle toilet paper. Consequently, people throw toilet paper to the side of the toilet: you will almost always see a wastebasket next to the toilet for that purpose, even in the nicest hotels. In latrines, there will probably not be a wastebasket, but rather a pile of paper (it is common in the countryside to see newspaper used as toilet paper) to which you should add. Occasionally you may see paper thrown into the latrine itself.

If you do find a toilet out in the countryside, you will probably find it is not supplied with running water to flush. Consequently, when waste builds up, you must flush it manually. There will usually be a water tap supplied with a bucket nearby for that purpose. Rapidly pour the minimal amount of water necessary into the bowl of the toilet until it flushes.

Safety

Avoid travel after dark at all costs! Make sure you consult with your driver to accurately project travel times, and leave plenty of time to arrive before dark. It is important to have a reliable vehicle that will not break down in the middle of the countryside somewhere. Such vehicles may cost up to $200/day. Consequently, much of your costs will be associated with ground transportation.

Never travel alone after dark in the city of San Cristóbal, neither on foot or in the vehicle of anyone unknown to you. This especially applies to women, who are particularly vulnerable, as there have been many rapes reported recently, including by taxi drivers transporting single women passengers. Men and women both are also vulnerable to muggings. Try to travel in groups of at least three, preferably including one male, and stick closely together. Make sure people know where you are going and how long you expect to be gone. This is a good idea even if you are going out in broad daylight.

Make copies of your passport. Leave one copy in the US. Carry one copy with you in a separate location from the actual passport. Give one copy to your group leader and another to one of the human rights groups in San Cristóbal, along with a person/phone number to contact in case of emergency.

Communication with the US:

Internet access: available at the two cybercafes in San Cristóbal, which are open from 9 AM-10 PM. There, you can access Internet-based E-mail servers such as YahooMail, Juno, Hotmail, etc.

Credit card calling: through Mexican telephones labeled Ladatel, you can access US 800 numbers to make calling card calls through most major telephone services. Check your calling card prior to departure for the access number to dial.

Direct dialing: usually possible from your hotel room. Hotels without individual phones in the rooms will generally have a public phone in the lobby.

It is a good idea to arrange in advance to check in with someone back in the US every day that you are in Chiapas. Incorporated towns of any size have public phones, so you can make a call when passing through.

Packing List

It is recommended that you take a carryon bag with essential personal items and a change of clothes in case your checked suitcase is delayed. The luggage limit for Mexicana Airlines is one carryon bag of no more than 40 pounds, and two checked bags of no more than 70 pounds total.

Personal Items:

• Comb or brush, toothpaste, toothbrush
• Mosquito repellent
• Suntan lotion
• Wet wipes: very convenient when you need to wash your hands but do not have water
• Band-Aids and antibiotic ointment
• Adhesive tape if you are prone to blisters
• Personal medications, preferably in original prescription bottle
• Area-specific medications: Imodium (anti-diarrheal); Pepto-Bismol or Maalox (stomach upset); Dramamine (Chiapas has winding mountain roads with rapid elevation changes and drivers that are accustomed to driving very rapidly, so even the most stable stomach is challenged); and a pain reliever (sore muscles or tension headaches). Additional Note: Mexican pharmacies are very well equipped and you do not need a doctor's prescription, so you can easily buy medicines there.
• Toilet paper (to carry with you at all times; you can buy this at most markets in San Cristóbal)
• Laundry detergent (a small bottle will do; you can expect clothes to get quite dirty the days you are in the countryside, and you may need to wash some out even if you have brought a change of clothes for each day)

Camping Supplies:

• Sleeping bag
• Towel (handy when camping or swimming) & washcloth (handy for when you cannot take a whole bath)
• Biodegradable (camping style) soap &/or shampoo (if you have to bathe in any rivers this will be gentler on the environment)
• Ready-to eat food (for times when camping if you don't wish to eat food prepared in small communities, or when on the road w/o time to stop for lunch; there is not much camping-style food for sale in San Cristóbal, other than granola, nuts, and raisins, and you may require something more substantial)
• Pocket knife
• Flashlight and extra batteries (you will be traipsing around in the dark looking for the latrine)
• Hiking boots (and plastic bag to store them: you can expect to encounter serious mud)
• A day pack is useful for times when you need to take only part of your gear with you (in addition, it is useful as a carryon for the plane).

Clothing:

• The best approach is layers, including lightweight T-shirts, long-sleeved cotton shirts, a light sweater, a warm shell (? works well) to a medium-weight jacket (preferably water repellent). You should anticipate a range from nearly tropical conditions (at low elevations, particularly in the dry season) to near-freezing temperatures (in the rainy season at high elevations). Remember, you may be spanning 6000-foot changes in elevation. If you take numerous layers of increasing thickness, you should be able to remain warm and dry, with the ability to wear the right amount of clothes. You should be able to avoid taking a large bulky overcoat if you follow these layering guidelines.
• Bring neat, presentable clothing to give a respectful, serious appearance. Modesty in Mexico means no uncovered shoulders or upper legs--shorts and tank tops are out. Neat T-shirts and jeans are acceptable for the countryside. Plan on bringing a nice outfit in case your trip includes a meeting with a government official.
• The rains can be torrential, so a rain slicker that covers all is recommended. An umbrella is much less practical.
• Swimsuit and plastic bag to store it
• Wide-brimmed hat (it is also very easy to buy a straw hat in San Cristóbal for about $3).

Other:

• Travel alarm clock (you will be getting up very early some mornings, plus there is a two-hour time change)
• Passport, driver's license or other identification and money should be carried with you at all times. A money belt is recommended. Traveler's checks can only be cashed in Chiapas at certain central locations during business hours, at a poorer rate of exchange (as much as 10% less) than for cash.
• Camera and film, although you can buy film in San Cristóbal if you run short.
• Tape recorders, camcorders, and laptops (with extra batteries, if possible) are useful for documentation, although there is always a chance that they will be stolen. As a fallback for when times when you are camping and unable to recharge or purchase batteries, bring a notepad and writing utensils.

Protecting Your Health

Physical Condition: It is advisable to be in moderately good physical condition because you may participate in some amount of hiking (generally not more than a mile or two). Additionally, the hikes may take place under quite hot, tropical conditions. You will want to load a small backpack with sufficient water to carry with you.

Vaccinations: Refer to the US Centers for Disease Control Web Site.

Disclaimer: The information provided here is a summary of US CDC recommendations, but is not to be regarded as professional advice, nor should it substitute for the recommendations of your physician.

TETANUS: it would be foolish to go without a current tetanus booster, given the amount of hiking you may be doing.

In general, malaria and other insect-transmitted diseases can be avoided by minimizing insect bites through the liberal use of insect repellent.

MALARIA: Chloroquine is recommended for persons visiting rural areas of Chiapas. However, if you take chloroquine, you will not be able to donate blood for THREE YEARS!!

In general, parasitic infections, hepatitis A, cholera, and typhoid are transmitted through contaminated food and water. For these reasons and because the cholera and typhoid vaccines do not assure protection, it is important to avoid contaminated food and water.

HEPATITIS A: A new vaccine is available for repeated travel to risky rural areas; it consists of a series of two shots, six months apart, provide lifetime immunity. The first shot should be scheduled four weeks before travel. Immune globin, the older alternative, conveys short-term protection, but it is difficult to find in the US at the current time.

CHOLERA: the vaccine is of limited and uncertain benefit, so the CDC does not recommend it.

TYPHOID: although the vaccine only is effective in 70-90% of people, the CDC recommends it for travelers to rural areas.

Sexual activity: if you engage in such activity, take the same precautions as you would in the US

Tips for avoiding contaminated food and water:

• Carry bottled water with you wherever you go. Plan on between 2 and 4 liters (1/2 to 1 gallon) per day, depending on how hot it is and how much exercising you do. Using bottled water even when you brush your teeth is not a bad idea.
• Carbonated or processed/bottled drinks are an alternative to bottled water.
• Only ice made with bottled water can be considered safe.
• Handmade fruit drinks may be impure due to 1) unclean handling of the fruit, 2) dilution with tap water, or 3) chilling with ice, so it is important to ask how they are made. The nicer restaurants are very sanitary and make their drinks and ice with bottled water, but ask to make sure.
• Only eat fresh fruits and vegetables that you can peel.
• Avoid salads or any uncooked vegetables except in the most sanitary restaurants (inquire as to how vegetables are washed; using water containing bleach is a common and effective way to kill microorganisms).
• Make sure your food, especially the meat, is well cooked.
• Avoid dishes that are not dry: they may contain contaminated water.
• Wash and dry hands before eating.